While Haute Couture Week is often known for pushing the boundaries of fashion, this season saw a captivating shift. Established houses turned their gaze inwards, revisiting their roots and refining their signature styles. It was a celebration of heritage, with designers paying homage to the past while simultaneously strengthening their own unique voices. Let’s delve into how these masters of fashion reinterpreted their traditions, emerging with collections that felt both familiar and refreshingly new.

Schiaparelli: A Phoenix Rising

Schiaparelli’s show emerged from the darkness, held in the basement of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. This theatrical stage perfectly complemented the collection’s central theme: The Phoenix. Daniel Roseberry, the house’s Creative Director, channelled Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy of constant reinvention. He carefully studied archives, reflecting on past eras while injecting his modern vision. The collection was a masterclass in Schiaparelli signatures: over-the-top shoulders, pointed necklines, and voluminous skirts. A shoe corset, a nod to Elsa’s 1937 collaboration with Salvador Dalí, served as a powerful ending note, highlighting the house’s audacious spirit.

Georges Hobeika: A Nocturnal Garden Blooms

Georges Hobeika, renowned for his whimsical creations, transported us to his “Nocturnal Garden.” This collection explored the delicate balance between life and death, with blossoms blooming out of dresses and fabrics cascading like waterfalls. Pastels interplayed with bold colours, capturing the essence of a garden awakening. Meticulous embellishments and floral motifs embody the classic femininity that defines Hobeika’s work while the inclusion of masculine silhouettes adds a layer of intrigue and complexity.

Elie Saab: An Enchanted Serenade

Elie Saab’s “Enchanted Serenade” defied expectations, showcasing a surprising versatility within his signature style. Each piece, from figure-hugging gowns to flowing skirts, transcended a singular look, offering a range suitable for various red-carpet personalities. Yet, they remained unified by the meticulous attention to detail – a hallmark of Saab’s mastery. This collection ushered in a new era, where intricate floral embellishments, meshy nets, chiffon, lace, and velvet weaved a tapestry of breathtaking intricacy. Exquisite detailing and appliqués added an extra layer of visual drama, while capes and accessories transformed each look into a masterpiece.

Chanel: A New Dawn 

Following Virginie Viard’s era, Chanel Haute Couture presented a collection that felt like a homecoming. The Fashion Creation Studio took the reins, steering the house back towards its core identity while injecting a touch of theatrical flair. Tutus, Pierrot details, and long capes referenced Gabrielle Chanel’s legacy of designing for 1920s ballets. Exquisite craftsmanship took centre stage with embroidered flowers, feathers, and bows adorning everything from classic tweed to the bride’s final gown.  The collection offered a true return to Chanel’s core identity infused with operatic grandeur for the modern audience.

Zuhair Murad: The Desert Rose

Zuhair Murad’s “The Desert Rose” collection draws inspiration from the power of nature’s resilience. Murad translates this theme into a captivating play of light and shadow portraying vulnerability and strength. Dark, matte fabrics serve as a canvas for his signature dazzling embellishments, which create intricate visual designs across the dresses. These embellishments symbolise a powerful transformation, emerging even more beautiful amidst the “wounds” referenced by the strategic cuts in the fabrics.

Ashi Studio: Sculpted Clouds

Mohammed Ashi’s love for sculptural forms reaches new heights with “Sculpted Clouds.” He played with fabric, building and deconstructing it to capture the ever-changing essence of a cloud. From voluminous textures to ethereal wispiness, Ashi translated a seemingly mundane theme into high fashion. The colour palette mirrored this theme, transitioning from black to silver to white. Raincoats and jackets completed the story, solidifying the connection between the collection and its celestial inspiration.