Deep, graphic and endlessly elegant, black onyx is taking centre stage as jewellery houses bring the dark stone into some of their most recognisable designs.  

Fine jewellery has embraced plenty of colour in recent seasons, from emerald and sapphires to softer semi-precious stones. Yet some of the most striking pieces appearing now are built around a much darker palette. 

Black onyx has a simplicity that makes it instantly recognisable. Set against yellow or rose gold, it creates a strong graphic contrast, while diamonds appear even brighter beside its deep black colour. It can feel bold and dramatic in one design, then surprisingly subtle in another. 

Boucheron has placed the stone firmly in focus with its Serpent Boheme Light and Shadow creations. Across 12 pieces, faceted black onyx is paired with polished yellow gold and worked into the collection’s signature drop-shaped motif. First introduced in 1968, Serpent Boheme has become one of the house’s most recognisable designs, and the addition of onyx gives it a noticeably sharper look. 

At Cartier, onyx has long been part of the Panthere de Cartier story. The black stone is often used to define the panther’s features, giving the panther its distinctive expression. Seen alongside yellow gold, diamonds and tsavorite garnets, even the smallest touches of onyx can completely change the character of a piece. 

Van Cleef & Arpels offers one of the most familiar interpretations through its Vintage Alhambra collection. Polished black onyx sits within the motif’s delicate yellow-gold beaded border, creating a combination that feels both graphic and timeless. The design also shows why onyx works so well in everyday fine jewellery. It makes an impact without feeling overly elaborate. 

At Buccellati, the stone becomes the backdrop for intricate goldwork. The opera tulle pendant places black onyx beneath the house’s detailed yellow-gold design, allowing the craftsmanship to stand out against the dark surface. It is a particularly beautiful example of how the simplicity of onyx can bring attention to the detail surrounding it. 

Dior takes a softer approach with Rose des Vents. Here, onyx appears alongside pink gold and diamonds within the collection’s reversible medallions. One side reveals that polished gemstone, while the other features the eight-pointed wind rose that has become a signature of the collection. 

What makes onyx particularly appealing is its versatility. The stone can transform a sculptural statement piece, sharpen a familiar motif or simply add a small touch of black to an otherwise classic design. It also has the kind of timeless quality that makes these pieces feel relevant well beyond a single season. 

For fine jewellery, black is once again proving just how much can be said with very little colour. 

By Sayhrah Noor Asif-Ali