Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 haute couture collection, showcased at the majestic Palais Garnier, was a testament to the house’s enduring legacy and its harmonious blend of fashion and the performing arts. This event, held on 25 June 2024, marked the end of an era with Virginie Viard’s departure, who had taken over from Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. The collection, envisioned by Chanel’s Fashion Design Studio, transformed the historic venue into a theatrical haven, replete with plush red velvet chairs and a setting designed by Christophe Honoré, which offered a fresh perspective on the cultural landmark.
Drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s contributions to ballet, particularly her designs for Le Train bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928), the collection featured elements reminiscent of these ballets. Models, including the renowned Vittoria Ceretti, graced the stage in fluid, sophisticated silhouettes crafted from lightweight fabrics, which moved elegantly, reflecting the dynamic artistry of dance. The designs, characterised by their dramatic reinterpretations of classic forms, showcased Chanel’s commitment to creating timeless pieces that transcend fleeting trends.
Feathers, tassels, cabochons, embroidered flowers, and duchesse satin dominated the collection, evoking the grandeur of an opulent soirée. Long opera capes and a warm, reassuring palette of black, silver, ivory, and pink hues further enhanced the nostalgic yet contemporary aesthetic. Each piece was meticulously crafted to capture light and exude elegance, underscoring Chanel’s dedication to impeccable craftsmanship.
A standout feature was the intricate embroidery, which revitalised traditional Chanel elements like tweed and evening gowns. The ubiquitous Chanel bow motif appeared in various forms, from cinched waists on black coats to delicate hair adornments, seamlessly blending classical elements with modern design. The bow ended up becoming the signature embellishment of the collection, and its many iterations accentuated Chanel’s ability to merge tradition with innovation.
The grand finale, which featured model Angelina Kendall in a striking taffeta gown adorned with glittering floral embroidery and a white bow, epitomised the collection’s blend of heritage and contemporary style. Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 haute couture collection not only honoured its storied past but also looked forward, continuing to define the house’s singular blend of elegance and modernity.