The watch world loves to celebrate anniversaries, and whether it’s the company or a watch model having a big year, it always means great new watches for the consumer. In 2025, Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years of uninterrupted manufacturing with a handful of excellent limited editions, including three new Traditionnelle models, two new Patrimony watches, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. These exquisite watches all share signature elements such as the Maltese cross-inspired hand-guilloché pattern on the dial, a rediscovered côte unique finish on the bridges, and a discreet anniversary emblem engraved on the in-house calibre.
For the brand’s 160th anniversary, Zenith released a new timeless classic powered by an exceptional movement in a limited edition of 160 pieces. Named G.F.J. for founder Georges Favre-Jacot, it resuscitates legendary Calibre 135, Zenith’s most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. Calibre 135-O was initially revived in 2022 through an excellent project with Kari Voutilainen that restored ten of these vintage movements, and today, Zenith pays homage to the movement by making a new version using its look, architecture, and dimensions. This movement is not a reproduction, but rather a re-engineered movement with up-to-date technology solutions and materials. G.F.J.’s look captures the essence of the 1950s with an elegant 39 mm platinum case and a blue lapis lazuli dial whose outer ring features a “brick” guilloché pattern.
Celebrating 30 years of existence, Roger Dubuis presented the Excalibur Grande Complication, an eight-piece limited edition housed in a 45 mm pink gold case honouring the brand’s journey by combining three prestigious complications with a biretrograde display in a Seal of Geneva-certified movement. Partnering with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht in the 1980s, Roger created numerous calibres and registered patents. One was for a retrograde display system, and this co-patent later became the basis for the very first Roger Dubuis watch in 1995. The Excalibur Grande Complication is the brand’s second grand complication, encompassing a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, and an automatic tourbillon. The perpetual calendar was Roger’s favourite complication, and this one presents its information in a brand-typical biretrograde display.
Hublot honours 20 years of its Big Bang model by revisiting some of the most significant milestones in the collection’s history, combining the original design with today’s Big Bang Unico to result in five limited edition Big Bang models: Titanium Ceramic & King Gold Ceramic, Red Ceramic, All Black, and Magic Gold. Each of these five editions includes redesigned cases and a selection of materials typical of the manufacture, combining the most characteristic elements from both the first Big Bang models and the later Unico.
Some complicated elements never seem to go out of style in luxury watches, and this year the perpetual calendar seems to be popping up in many places – such as the Vacheron Constantin Traditonnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, which features a new calibre just 6.55 mm in height even though it combines a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Automatic winding is guaranteed thanks to a peripheral oscillating weight as seen through the case back, a rather technical choice that maintains the calibre’s thinness and ensures a 72-hour power reserve. This platinum beauty is offered in a 127-piece limited edition with all the decorative elements of the other anniversary timepieces.
The king of complication, A. Lange & Söhne, graces us in 2025 with a stupendously elegant new Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar featuring a new movement in a limited edition of 50 pieces. This manually wound beauty comes in platinum and features a jet-black enamel dial. As with every new development at the traditional German manufacturer, the technology is brought forward to the latest – and so it is here: all of the perpetual calendar indications can jointly be advanced using one single corrector, including the brand-typical large date.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has a “Reverso year” in 2025, and among the slew of new swivelling watches is a 30-piece limited edition Tribute Minute Repeater. It’s visible Calibre 953 is a fresh movement that incorporates seven existing patents, including key inventions enhancing chime quality: trébuchet hammers, crystal gongs, and silent-interval elimination. And, distinctively, this gorgeous movement is thanks to the swivelling pink gold case. Both the front and back dials display the same time, but the front dial showcases a radiant hand-guilloché barleycorn pattern that has been elevated by multiple layers of grand feu enamel in a new teal blue colour. The reverse dial is openworked, revealing the entire complexity of the repeater mechanism.
Piaget’s Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase combines a flying tourbillon with a graphic moon phase display housed in titanium and featuring Piaget’s favorite color, blue. This watch is powered by a new version of Piaget’s Caliber 600P, once hailed as the thinnest-shaped tourbillon. Hand-wound Caliber 642P possesses a height of 4 mm, and it mirrors the 600P’s ultra-thin architecture, its flying tourbillon, and its finely worked tourbillon cage in the shape of a stylized P. It also encases the components required to display the moon phase with an imperceptible increase in thickness of just 0.5 mm. The watch in total is only 9.8 mm high despite its 44 mm diameter and a fill of technical goodness.
Sporty and casual are all the fashion today, and modern watch fashion reflects this. And so Chopard presented its Alpine Eagle sports watch collection in an exceptional platinum version of the ultra-thin 41 XP case and clothed with a “Shades of Ice” blue gradient dial inspired by Alpine glaciers. This striking timepiece bearing the Seal of Geneva is powered by ultra-thin, chronometer-certified Calibre L.U.C 96.42-L equipped with a platinum micro rotor. Water-resistant to 100 m, this is a sporty watch with a blend of elegance and strength.
This beautiful Verzasca variation of Parmigiani’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante gets its name from the dial color named for the hues found in Switzerland’s Verzasca Valley waters. This thoroughly recognizable watch uses building blocks already familiar from the ubiquitous designs of casual luxury watches and Parmigiani Fleurier’s own catalogue. At first glance, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is a simple two-handed watch with a clean dial, but it doesn’t take long to notice that there is a subtle button hiding in the lower left lug and a small rose gold button protruding from the center of the crown. These elements hint at the secret this watch holds: the button on the lug is the GMT advance button, which moves the white gold hour hand forward in one-hour increments per push, sliding away to reveal an 18-karat pink gold home time hour hand underneath. That secondary hand stays put at “home time” while the white gold hand can be advanced to match the local hour (“travel time”) or any other reference time the wearer desires. And this is where the so-called “rattrapante” function comes into play: once the traveler returns home or no longer needs to track a second time zone, he or she pushes the rose gold button in the crown, thereby resetting the white gold hour hand and returning it to its place on top of the pink gold home time hand.
IWC presented a brand-new and most luxurious Ingenieur Automatic in a 40 mm case and outfitted with an integrated bracelet in 18-karat red gold as the latest addition to the 2023 revamped and reengineered Ingenieur line. The cherry on top is the beautifully structured grid-patterned dial with the colour of the date window perfectly matching the rest. Casual design that is also beautifully elegant.
Among the six new variations of this year’s revitalized TAG Heuer Carrera Date is the particularly noteworthy Twin-Time with a striking teal-coloured dial – a hue inspired by the racing livery of motorsport’s golden age (TAG Heuer is the new sponsor of Formula 1). Nestled in the timeless look of the colourful dial is a GMT function that allows the owner to see the time in a second time zone immediately. Housed in a 41 mm stainless steel case, this watch comes with an integrated steel bracelet.
Bright colour is still on “trend” as evidenced by the many Hublot Big Bang variations and can be found on cases, straps, and/or dials of a variety of watches – such as those by H. Moser & Cie. This brand is known for using colour in a creative way on its dials, and the new Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel makes for an exceptionally striking example with its grand feu enamel fumé dial with hammered texture. Moser calls this colouring Purple Haze.
Hermès continues its love story with artsy dials with the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé by artist Dimitri Rybaltchenko, who created a stylized interpretation of a horse applied to the backdrop of a blue enamel dial. It is available in a limited edition of 24 pieces.
The sub-brand of MB&F, M.A.D.Editions, presented at the fair its follow-up to the M.A.D.1 called M.A.D.2. Offered in two colours, green and orange (the latter reserved only for The Tribe – existing clients). Its designer, Eric Giroud, made its wild display as a love letter to 1990s club culture, and we can feel it!
