Launched with the idea of creating alternative jewelry designs, OŪMÄEM, is inspired by the architecture and progressive aesthetics of the Arab world that rethink vernacular forms. As the founder and creative director of the brand, I use my background in architecture to design each piece, referencing mathematics, geometrics and science to present jewelry that celebrates diversity and inclusion.
Flexibility is at the core of OŪMÄEM’s philosophy and most of our rings are stackable. Three rings, SHIFT, MARGIN and INDEX, can be worn individually, as a pair, or a trio. Crafted locally with ethically-sourced materials, each design features unique diamond cuts and clean lines that are palatable for the new generation. Here, I share some of my most beloved pieces and the architectural stories behind them.
THE INSPIRATION: These earrings are inspired by dhow, the Arab sailing vessel that’s also known as ‘boom’ and ‘sambuk’. The design and construction of boats, especially sailboats, plays an important part in the history and traditions of the Gulf region. The sailboat became the starting point for me to create earrings that not only depict their architectural form, but also represent their power and resilience.
THE DESIGN: Just as ships have several sails that serve different functions, the Stormsail earrings have five arms, each of which has been adorned with baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds, depicting the structure of the boat’s pole. At the end of the earrings is a tapered-baguette diamond, which showcases the fabric of the sail. The arrangement of the diamonds creates architectonic harmony. The earrings can be split into two—this form of flexibility is associated with the balance and functionality of sailboats. Depending on your mood and the occasion, wear the Stormsail earrings on one ear for an extravagant evening, or split them into two and adorn both for an elegant afternoon tea.
THE INSPIRATION: The main inspiration behind the ring are black goat-hair tents, also called ‘bayt al-shar’. These Bedouin tents are usually ornamented with special patterns and created using the wool weaving process, which is associated with the powerful role of women in Bedouin tradition, as they’re the builders of family shelters. The complex Sadu patterns, made of abstract geometrical elements and principal colors red, black and white, are said to include a secret code, understood only by the women of the tribe. Their mystical and magical architecture is the foundation of the jewelry piece.
THE DESIGN: The Saduhaus ring includes emerald-cut central diamonds, with the main one enclosed by four-side baguette stones to create a new pattern. The 12 brilliant- cut diamonds have been arranged to form a triangle and, here, the ring produces the shape of an arrow, reflecting on the power of Arab women. The Saduhaus collection also includes earrings, which follow the same philosophy and symbolism.
THE INSPIRATION: This is a modern take on the classic ballerina ring. It pays tribute to Samri, a traditional dance popular in the Arabian Peninsula. The Samri dance has a special rhythm and movements, reminiscent of concepts found in modern architecture. Women dancing the Samri usually hold a veil in their hands, allowing them to move fluidly while showing only a few of their features.
THE DESIGN: The Array ring contains 12 tapered-baguette diamonds that represent the veil and steps taken in the dance. A ruby-red baguette hides beneath the tapered baguette diamonds, which you can only see when shown. At the center of the ring is a brilliant-cut diamond, reflective of the elegant yet expressive spirit of the dancer.
THE INSPIRATION: This piece is inspired by native citadels found in Arab cities, which are also known as ‘kasbahs’. Defense towers are key elements found in citadels, which not only offer protection but also serve as landmarks. Old Arab towns take great pride in the construction of kasbah towers, as they’re a standing proof of the city’s strength and identity, among other surrounding towns.
THE DESIGN: Akin to a citadel, the petite Kasbah ring has four diamonds, the central one is a round brilliant cut, symbolizing the heart of the city. Three baguette-cut diamonds reflect the towers surrounding and protecting the town. This ring is also a symbol of independence, strength and the beauty of the person who wears it.
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Images courtesy of OŪMÄEM.
