This season, the Paris edition has recorded four key departures, including Balenciaga, who has instead chosen to show a mixed runway collection, as part of Paris Fashion Week Women’s in February for autumn/winter 2018-19. Also absent from the runway is cashmere specialist Lucien Pellat Finet, who has opted for a presentation, which will take place Wednesday, January 17 at 10 am, coinciding with the designer’s release of a new line of sneakers. The other two missing this year are brands 22/4 and Julius.

These absences will be filled, however, by five new entries such as Vetements, as previously revealed by FashionNetwork.com last week. The cult label, after showing in Paris for both women’s fashion week and couture, has now joined for the first time the men’s schedule, announcing a mixed show will take place in January. The other newcomers to Paris next year are Nïuku, Gmbh, Paloma Spain and Dunhill London.

As for those making a comeback to Paris, there’s Acne Studios; the Swedish outfit returning to a traditional show format this season, joining Off-White and the label’s designer Virgil Abloh, who both showed at Pitti Uomo in June.

Finally, the other big-name Paris returner is Martin Margiela. Last season, the fashion house was happy to do a presentation, and focus on its other shows “with the view of creating a stronger coherence between the three lines (couture, women’s and men’s) designed by John Galliano,” the maison explained to FashionNetwork.com back in June.