Collection highlights from the Spring/Summer 2027 shows

From polished power dressing to sun-faded textures and artisanal knitwear, Milan’s Spring/Summer 2027 collections are finding fresh ways to remind us of summer. Here are some of the highlights from the past twenty-four hours.

Max Mara

Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection makes a compelling case for the return of impeccable dressing. Built around sharp silhouettes, precise tailoring and sculptural forms, it approaches power dressing with a softer, more contemporary attitude.

The palette remains restrained, with elegant neutrals allowing proportion and construction to do the talking. Jackets are cut with confidence, trousers fall with precision and fluid pieces bring a welcome sense of movement to an otherwise disciplined wardrobe. Nothing feels overly complicated, yet every look carries the polish for which the house is known. The result is an ideal working wardrobe for women who want to look assured without appearing overly styled.

Alberta Ferretti

For his latest collection for Alberta Ferretti, Creative Director Lorenzo Serafini explores échappée belle, or “a beautiful escape”, through a collection shaped by movement, freedom and the fading memory of summer.

The design looks to the liberated silhouettes of the 1920s, drawing on the era’s languid proportions and sense of sensuality. Slip dresses, lingerie-inspired details and kimono jackets appear alongside balloon trousers and fluid layers, creating a wardrobe that feels loose, expressive and instinctive.

The collection carries a subtle Jazz Age spirit and a sense of freedom. Clothes skim the body, while softness and transparency add a sense of intimacy. The silhouettes feel more directional than in previous seasons, suggesting a house confidently pushing its codes forward.

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, “Traces of Time”, considers time not as something that ages clothes, but as something that transforms them.

Designed by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco, the collection explores surfaces marked by wear, weather and memory. Salt crystals appear as both treatment and embroidery, while acid washes, cold dyeing, and laser techniques create irregular colour and texture. Linen mimics the effect of garments already softened by use, seersucker is crumpled and hollowed, and organza layers transparency with light.

Despite the conceptual starting point, the clothes remain remarkably wearable. Jackets lose their stiffness, trousers become airy, and knitwear takes on the intimacy of underpinnings. The palette ranges from weathered neutrals to deep black. The effect is tactile, fluid and quietly poetic.

Brunello Cucinelli

Brunello Cucinelli approaches Spring/Summer 2027 through The Nature of Savoir-Faire, a collection that celebrates craftsmanship without allowing it to feel precious or overly formal.

Contrasting influences come together with ease. Nautical references meet metropolitan polish, while raffia is paired with organza and sailor stripes with touches of gold. Crochet, fluid tailoring, and lighter proportions soften workwear shapes. The result is a wardrobe that feels relaxed, but not casual.

The palette captures the warmth of summer through white, rope, ivory, cardamom, clay and leather, with brighter flashes of red and blue and softer touches of nude, peony, wheat and sunflower.

Knitwear remains the star. Hand-worked crochet, airy mesh, honeycomb structures and diagonal weaves inspired by Viennese canework bring texture without weight.