by Katherine Ann Knight
  • 3 minute read
  • July 13, 2024
An American in Paris: A resident’s guide to the City of Light

Travel writer Katherine Ann Knight has called Paris her home for over a decade. Here, she shares her favourite haunts and hidden gem locations she has discovered while walking the city’s iconic cobblestone streets.

Where is the best place to get a coffee or tea?

For those seeking an insider’s address, Café Mericourt is a favoured destination in the 11th arrondissement. On a vibrant yet placid side street of Rue Oberkampf, indulge in expertly crafted coffee or opt for one of their matcha, golden, or chai tea lattes. But if you’re looking for a quintessential Parisian café experience complete with people-watching, head to the iconic Café Flore in Saint-Germain — table 33, to be precise — my preferred seat.

Where should you go for an authentic dining experience?

For an authentic taste of Parisian cuisine, immerse yourself in the local experience by visiting a relaxed, neighbourhood restaurant. Bistro Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement is the place to book ahead, best known for its steak frites. If Paul Bert is fully booked, don’t fret; Les Arlots offers an equally authentic dining experience. This charming yet unpretentious establishment has friendly staff, making you feel like a regular, whether it’s your first visit or umpteenth. 

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

If you want to experience this city like a local, where should you visit?

Try enjoying idyllic picnics amongst the Romanticism-inspired landscaping and architectural follies of Parc des Buttes Chaumont on sunny afternoons, taking romantic strolls along the banks of the Seine (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) on balmy summer eves, and indulging in leisurely coffees and boutique shopping near Canal Saint-Martin. To finish the night, experience the vibrant nightlife near Oberkampf. And for a more tranquil retreat, indulge in fresh mint tea and baklava followed by a walk through the courts and gardens at the Grand Mosque. 

Where are the best places to shop?

Aside from the extraordinary and historic flagship stores that set Parisian luxury shopping apart, Paris’ Puces de Saint-Ouen is a must-visit for those seeking unique, one-of-a-kind finds without knowing exactly what they’re looking for. This vintage and antique market offers a labyrinth of vendors with varying price points – from affordable finds to museum-quality pieces, making it one of the most distinctive places to explore. Within the market, the Marché Paul Bert Serpette is the go-to destination for vintage designer furnishings, art and décor.

Where should people stay when they come to Paris?

Undoubtedly, one of the world’s finest hotels is the Ritz Paris, where the legendary Bar Hemingway is a must-visit. Another timeless gem is the Plaza Athénée, entrenched in fashion history and offering an iconic experience that lingers in one’s memory. And if I may offer one more suggestion, La Réserve captures the essence of intimacy and attention to detail, where guests are embraced with discreet yet impeccable service, which makes the place feel more like a welcoming home than just a hotel.

Any souvenir recommendations?

Consider iconic items like Mariage Frères tea, Guerlain perfumes, or one of the many Hermès scarves available at their flagship store on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Books on French cuisine or art make for thoughtful gifts, while unique trinkets from the Saint-Ouen markets, such as vintage posters or antique books, offer a piece of Parisian history to take home.

Hermès Paris Faubourg Saint Honoré

If a visitor is into history, where should they go?

With millennia of human settlement and over fifteen centuries of being at the centre of European civilisation, history lovers will quickly find themselves overwhelmed by the numerous sites Paris has to offer. A good place to start is the recently renovated Musée Carnavalet, where the history of Paris unfolds through the ages. The Conciergerie, once a royal palace turned prison (with Marie Antoinette being its most iconic guest), is one the best-preserved pieces of Paris’ medieval past. Just next door, Sainte-Chapelle is one of the highest achievements of Gothic architecture. 

What is the one thing that a visitor must do while exploring your favourite city?

Embrace the essence of Parisian life by surrendering to the city’s spontaneous rhythm. In the manner of the typical flâneur, allow a certain level of flexibility, giving way to a sense of indulgence and leisure. Plan your itinerary around two main attractions, booking tickets early to bypass the queues. But amidst the structured plans, leave space for unexpected discoveries down charming side streets. While Paris is a bucket-list destination, it is most memorably experienced as a local does.

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