Thobe, jubbah, kandura, dishdashah or jellabiya – the silhouette may have a different name across the Arab world, but its religious and social significance remains the same.
“Thawb (which can be pronounced ‘thobe’ or ‘tobe’, based on locale) is the standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’,” explains Dr Reem El Mutawalli, founder of the Zay Initiative. “The Zay Initiative defines the term for the garment as a traditional, loose-fitting tunic (‘kandurah’, as it is called in the UAE). It is worn by men, and is characterised by its modest design and cultural significance.”
The thobe’s origins can be traced back to the early Bedouin tribes, when clothing was viewed more from a survival perspective. “In the early days, thobes were made from locally sourced fabrics like wool, cotton, and linen,” notes Khaled Al Huraimel, founding partner of Bait Al Kandora. “The stitching was done by hand, and the designs were simple, reflecting the practical needs of the Bedouins and desert-dwellers who wore them.” Practicality reigned supreme, as surviving the desert heat (while maintaining modesty) was the only design prerequisite.
“The thobe reflects regional identities, craftsmanship, and historical continuity,” says Dr Reem. “The Emirati thawb incorporates simple, functional lines, with subtle embroidery and minimalist cuts, reflecting local heritage and regional aesthetics.” Further elaborating on its symbolic representation, she adds, “Both desert and sea life are reflected in the UAE thawb through colour choices – white and light shades symbolise the desert’s vastness and the purity of its environment; fabric selection – lightweight materials mirror the adaptability needed to survive the desert heat and coastal humidity; minimal embellishments – these reflect the simplicity and resilience of desert and marine life; flowing design – the loose, breathable fit echoes the movement of desert winds and the fluidity of the sea.”
Dr Reem also highlights the garment’s religious significance. “Its modest design aligns with the Islamic principles of a. covering the body, and b. maintaining humility,” she shares.
In the mid-20th century, the thobe’s design experienced a prominent change. “Thobes began to evolve in terms of colour, texture, and luxury,” Khaled reveals. Embellishments such as embroidery and beadwork gained popularity, particularly for special occasions such as weddings and festivals, for which intricate designs became the norm.
Thobes across the UAE vary in terms of design. Each region carries profound nuances, adding a unique flavour to the existing craft. The founder of Bait Al Thobe spotlights these differences.
“The Abu Dhabi style often features a more structured fit with a high collar known as ‘Aqab’, with clean, sharp lines,” he says. “Dubai embraces a sleek, modern approach with subtle detailing, sometimes featuring hidden buttons and soft collars for a contemporary touch. Al Ain and the Northern Emirates tend towards more relaxed fits, often incorporating traditional embroidery around the collar or cuffs.”
Fabric is the soul of the thobe. “In general, lightweight natural fabrics like voile cottons are chosen for comfort and functionality in the hot desert climate,” says Dr Reem, explaining the rationale behind choosing the right one. “Likewise, lightweight wools are used by men in winter. The male version is further distinguished by its clean lines, absence of a collar, and the use of a ‘farūkhah’ (tassel) hanging from the neckline.”
“Essential techniques include precise stitching, hand-finishing, and maintaining straight, simple, seamless lines for functionality and elegance,” says Dr Reem, discussing the construction techniques that go into a thobe. “Every detail matters – from the stitching to the finish – ensuring each and every thobe isn’t just a garment, but a work of art that bridges traditional heritage with contemporary fashion. The thobe remains a powerful symbol of cultural pride, religious respect, and sartorial elegance.”
