From Dior’s reworked house codes to Saint Laurent’s sharp revival of power dressing, these runway moments are capturing the mood of Paris Fashion Week. The season is defined by strong silhouettes, a renewed appreciation for craft, and a sense that fashion’s most enduring houses are looking both backward and forward at once.  Among the standout presentations were Dior, Saint Laurent, The Row, Tom Ford, and Alaïa, each offering a distinct perspective on what contemporary luxury can look like today.

Dior

At Dior, the focus remained firmly on the house’s enduring design language. The collection revisited some of Dior’s most recognisable signatures, including the iconic Bar jacket, but reframed them through contemporary proportions and styling. Cropped tailoring, pleated skirts, bows, and sweeping capes appeared throughout the runway, creating a dialogue between archival elegance and modern ease.  Structured jackets were paired with lighter fabrics, while romantic details such as lace and satin rosettes introduced softness into otherwise sharp silhouettes.

Saint Laurent

Few shows captured the season’s appetite for power dressing quite like Saint Laurent. Under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the runway paid homage to the house’s legendary Le Smoking suit, the design that revolutionised women’s tailoring when it was first introduced in the 1960s. 

This season’s reinterpretation leaned boldly into the aesthetic of 1980s corporate glamour: oversized coats, leather pencil skirts, sheer layers and statement jewellery. The silhouettes were assertive, emphasising strong shoulders and elongated lines, while dramatic makeup and styling reinforced the sense of confidence. Presented against the dramatic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, the show felt unmistakably Parisian: sharp and self-assured.

The Row

If some houses embraced theatricality this season, The Row remained committed to its signature philosophy: luxury expressed through precision.The brand’s runway leaned into restrained silhouettes, impeccable tailoring and an almost architectural sense of proportion.

Fluid coats, elongated trousers, and softly structured knitwear defined the collection. Neutral tones dominated the palette, allowing texture and craftsmanship to take centre stage. The Row’s approach has long been about clothing that reveals itself slowly and deliberately.

Tom Ford

Tom Ford’s latest chapter continues to evolve under creative director Haider Ackermann, who took over the house in 2024. Ackermann’s interpretation retains the sensual glamour synonymous with the brand while introducing a slightly more poetic sensibility. Tailored jackets with sculpted shoulders appeared alongside fluid eveningwear, while deep jewel tones and glossy textures echoed Tom Ford’s legacy of cinematic luxury. The show struck a careful balance between boldness and sophistication, proof that the brand’s identity remains intact even as a new creative voice begins to shape its future.

Alaïa

Creative director Pieter Mulier presented his final collection for the house, drawing inspiration from its iconic archives while pushing its craftsmanship forward. 

From there, the collection expanded into dramatic textures and shapes: croc-embossed trench coats, sharply layered black skirts, and sculptural outerwear that played with volume against the brand’s signature second-skin dresses. Pops of colour appeared in cherry red, slate grey and brushed gold, while a red pony-hair poncho and body-hugging square-neck dresses offered subtle nods to the 1990s, including styles reminiscent of those worn by Cher Horowitz in Clueless. 

Movement was central to the show. Knits, macramé fabrics and intricate trompe-l’oeil techniques created garments that shimmered and swayed as models walked, reinforcing Alaïa’s long tradition of designing clothes that respond to the body in motion.