There’s something about Florence that makes everyone fall in love with the city – its narrow medieval streets, the exquisite Renaissance architecture, and its secret locations, one of which is Gucci’s archives. 

Located on Via delle Caldaie, the archives have been restored to the finest level, preserving the legacy and heritage of the house. 

In 1953, Gucci acquired the Palazzo, which functioned as a leather goods manufacturing site until 1971, when it was converted into a showroom. It was here, for instance, that Tom Ford debuted his men’s Fall/Winter 1995-1996 collection for Gucci. This is where “modern” Gucci lays its roots, especially after the venue’s full restoration in 2021 and its official designation as the house’s archival headquarters. And, boy, it is out of this world.  

Stepping inside, you feel as if time has stopped, but in a beautiful way, not like the alienating sensation of an airport. Instead, you are transported into a different stratosphere – Gucci’s universe. In this magnificent Palazzo, you’ll find vaulted ceilings covered in frescoes, paintings adorning the walls, and exquisite floors juxtaposed with the brand’s one-of-a-kind heritage. Every piece has been carefully named, studied, and preserved – from the first luggage designed by Guccio Gucci in 1921 to Sabato De Sarno’s latest interpretation of the classic Jackie Obag.

For me, an Italian child who grew up with the myth of Gucci, it was heaven. I experienced Frida Giannini’s iconic (at least for me) Spring/Summer 2013 collection’s closing gown with coral motifs, the Gucci watches with bamboo straps from the ’80s-’90s (which I vividly remember because my Italian teacher, Marta, proudly told us it was a wedding gift from her husband), and the timeless GG-logo luggage of the early 1970s.

Now, a dedicated team works passionately to reconstruct and organise Gucci’s story – a narrative that is, in many ways, also the story of Western modern society.

But why was I there? Gucci had invited me to discover The Art of Silk 90×90 Project, their new evolution of the 90×90 silk foulards. To introduce us to this world, they took us on a journey through the archives, revealing the secrets behind Gucci’s scarves and motifs.

Did you know, for instance, that the iconic Flora pattern is a fantastical reimagination of flowers that don’t actually exist in nature? It was born from the pure imagination of Vittorio Accornero de Testa, Gucci’s silk ‘maestro’ from 1960 to 1981. 

When Flora was first created in 1966 as a gift for Grace Kelly by Rodolfo Gucci (who was famous in the ’50s for his beauty and his roles as an actor in silent films), it was revolutionary. The pattern included 37 different colours, each requiring a unique frame and an intricate printing process involving awling. Pure magic, pure Art of Silk.

There are five major patterns that define Gucci’s DNA – the Flora of 1966 (my all-time favourite), the GG logo of 1969, the nautical motif introduced in the 1950s, the equestrian motif (also from the ’50s), and Animalia of 1969.

Each of these has cemented its place in Gucci’s visual language. And now, to update and reinterpret them, the Florentine brand has invited nine contemporary artists – Robert Barry, Everett Glenn, Sara Leghissa, Currynew, Jonny Niesche, Gio Pastori, Walter Petrone, Yu Cai, and Inji Seo – to bring their own artistic voices to Gucci’s five silk themes.

From Everett’s comic-inspired world to the vibrancy of Shanghai-based artist Currynew, from Sara’s poetic reinterpretations to Inji’s pop-infused touches, these artists have been tasked with exploring and redefining The Art of Silk. There is also an upcoming book of the same name, edited by Jo-Ann Furniss and published by Assouline, that celebrates the house’s legacy in scarf-making.

One last floral note. To fully immerse us in the world of The Art of Silk, Gucci gifted each journalist an exquisite bouquet of flowers. It was actually the most beautiful bouquet I had ever received. I brought it home, and it lasted for three weeks.

So, perhaps Gucci’s Flora flowers are just as timeless and immortal as their legacy itself? Only time will tell. But one thing is certain – in the name of The Art of Silk, Gucci’s magic lives on.

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