Rubies have long been a jewel in the crown of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Haute Joaillerie collection. Revered as the ‘King of Gems’ in India, the gem’s wondrous tones of burning ember and natural red fluorescence from afar, and have inspired creations by the maison since 1906. This year, the brand unveiled its ‘Treasure of Rubies’ collection, which is bejeweled with 60 unique high jewelry pieces featuring more than 3,000 carats of certified rubies collected over several years.

“With Treasure of Rubies, Van Cleef & Arpels is continuing an adventure that began in 2016 with Émeraude en majesté: dedicating a High Jewelry collection to a single exceptional stone,” Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, said in a statement. “In keeping with its historic quest for Pierres de Caractère, the Maison has brought together more than 3,000 carats of certified rubies for the first time, in an ensemble of 60 unique creations.”

These resplendent pieces, including necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets, epitomize the brand’s signature characteristics, such as the use of the Mystery Set, a technique exclusive to the maison that involves the setting of stones in a way that no prongs are visible.

It also references the historic influence of the art of jewelry-making in India and France. The pièce de résistance of the collection is the Rubis flamboyant necklace that’s bedecked with an exquisite ruby weighing more than 25 carats, with 18 perfectly matched rubies adorning its motifs.

“The maison has designed a collection showcasing rubies of various cuts and origins. Its Main d’Or (golden hands) have been moved by the enchanting charm of these stones to create exceptional jewelry pieces inspired by two themes dear to the maison—India and couture,” explained Nicolas. “Hence, what really makes this collection special is the main stone used in all creations, ruby. Ruby is the most valuable variety of the corundum mineral species, which also includes sapphire. It can command the highest per-carat price of any colored stone. This makes the ruby one of the most important gems in the colored stone market.”

The Rubis Impérial necklace pays homage to the precious necklaces favoured by Indian maharajas. Sublime in design, this remarkable piece features a total of nine rows of rubies, weighing over 1,000 carats, creating an interplay of light and shadow. With its jewel-encrusted clasps, the necklace can transform into four, five or nine rows.

Another highlight are the Duo de diamants earrings with detachable pendants in white gold, embellished with rubies and diamonds. From a flower with vermilion petals to a scarlet ribbon with a purple paisley motif, these pieces epitomize the brand’s passion for radiant tones of red.

With its spectacular mélange of gemstones, the pieces carry forward Van Cleef & Arpels’ tradition of Pierres de Caractère, two pear-shaped diamonds whose purity and whiteness radiates against the crimson of the rubies.

A personal favorite is the contemporary Rivières necklace, which stands out for its asymmetric design and precious stones, where the sparkle of the diamonds accentuates the deep, warm tones of 28 rubies that collectively weigh 43.70 carats. The Elsa necklace, which pays homage to the founder of Maison Schiaparelli, features links of pink gold, set with rubies that create a kaleidoscope of colors.

This quest for glorious gems has inspired Van Cleef & Arpels since its inception, when the Arpels brothers made numerous expeditions to India and the Far East from the 1950s to the 1970s. We wait with bated breath to see how the maison dazzles us next.

Images courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels. Vancleefarpels