The Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London is set to unveil a landmark exhibition dedicated to Cartier, marking the first major UK showcase of the Maison’s masterpieces in nearly three decades. Running from April 12 to November 16, 2025, the glitzy exhibition will feature over 350 objects, including precious jewels, historic gemstones and iconic timepieces, charting Cartier’s evolution from the brand’s founding in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier to today.
The exhibition showcases several remarkable and regal pieces, including Grace Kelly’s engagement ring; a brooch with a 23.6-carat pink diamond commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II; and – underscoring the brand’s timelessness, the Scroll Tiara, worn by Princess Mary for her brother George IV’s coronation in 1937, as well as to her niece Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953. More recently, the tiara was worn by music icon Rihanna on the cover of W magazine in 2016.
Of course, we can’t talk about Cartier and not mention pearls. A significant highlight of the exhibition is the exploration of Cartier’s deep-seated connections with the Middle East through the allure of natural pearls. Jacques Cartier, the gem expert among the Cartier brothers, recognised the unparalleled quality of pearls from the Persian Gulf, and in 1911, journeyed to Bahrain to source the finest natural pearls that would become central to Cartier’s creations. Throughout the 1920s, these exquisite gems accounted for more than 60% of Cartier’s turnover.
As a testament to their value, another of the brothers, Pierre Cartier, secured a prime Fifth Avenue mansion in New York in 1917 by exchanging two strings of natural pearls – the location remains Cartier’s New York flagship to this day.
The exhibition will showcase several remarkable natural pearl pieces. Among them is a rare pearl once owned by Queen Mary, wife of King George V, exemplifying the royal patronage that Cartier attracted.
Another standout is the magnificent natural pearl and diamond necklace known as ‘Le Maharajah,’ created by Cartier in 2011 and part of the esteemed Al Thani Collection, some of which is on display at a dedicated museum space at the Hôtel de la Marine in Paris. These pearl pieces not only emphasise the exceptional quality of the pearls but also underscore the cultural exchanges that have enriched Cartier’s designs.
Rachel Garrahan, one of the project’s curators and contributing jewellery and watch director of British Vogue, stresses the significance of these cultural intersections. “We are excited to have objects from the region in the exhibition,” she says. “We have an entire room dedicated to the global cultures that inspired Cartier in the early 20th century, including ancient Egypt, Iran and India. Cartier often incorporated existing decorative arts fragments (what Cartier calls apprets) from those cultures, including manuscript paintings from Persian books and ancient Egyptian faience, into its creations with great sensitivity and skill.”
Another bonafide treasure – and Garrahan’s favourite piece – is an opal tiara crafted by Cartier London in 1937. This singular work of art was commissioned by the Marchioness of Hartington (Kathleen Agnes Cavendish, sister of U.S. President John F. Kennedy) after her return from Australia with a set of extremely rare black opals.
The piece exemplifies Cartier London’s creative zenith during a period when the house produced more tiaras than ever before, coinciding with King George VI’s coronation. However, it also stands apart from those pieces that came before.
“Opals are unusual for a Cartier creation during this period,” says Garrahan, underscoring the brand’s innovative spirit and willingness to buck traditions.
Visit vam.ac.uk
Visit vam.ac.uk
