by MARIE MEYER
  • 3 minute read
  • October 03, 2024
Three emerging designers that showcased at Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week has long been the stage where new talents emerge, and this year was no exception. Among the promising designers who captured the industry’s attention were Ellen Hodakova Larson, Alain Paul, and Zomer, each bringing their unique visions and concepts to the runway. Here’s a closer look at what makes them the standout names of the season.

Hodakova: Up-cycling with elegance

Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larson shook the fashion world earlier this year by winning the LVMH Prize for Young Designers. Hailing from Sweden, Ellen’s background in upcycling is more than just a method; it’s part of who she is. Growing up on a rural farm, she learned to appreciate materials for what they could become, not just what they were.

Ellen Hodakova Larson

One of the highlights of her collection was the ability to transform the ordinary into extraordinary. Featuring dresses made entirely out of zippers, waistbands and buttons, and skirts made with boots, the entire show spinner the traditional vision of fashion. Turning the pieces inside out, upside down, and transforming them into completely new looks, is the branding of Hodakova. Built with belts a dramatic top made from silver trays, a family heirloom, and a voluminous low-waist skirt crafted from army chinos. 

Though she is not officially on the Paris Fashion Week calendar yet, Hodakova’s showcase is further cementing her status as one to watch. Supported by the Swedish Fashion Council, her work underscores how far sustainable fashion can go with creativity and resourcefulness.

A piece to remember: The shift dress adorned with belts bounding

Hodakova’s Belt Dress

AlainPaul: Dance meets fashion

AlainPaul also brought a unique narrative to the runway, though his roots are in a different world—dance. Before venturing into fashion, Alain was trained at the Opéra École National Supérieur de Danse de Marseille, and his background in ballet is unmistakable in his work.

The AlainPaul team

This season, his collection flowed like a perfectly choreographed piece, each garment moving with the grace of a dancer. Alain masterfully blended the soft, fluid lines of a dancer’s wardrobe with modern structure, creating pieces that were both ethereal and sharp. His early years working with VETEMENTS clearly influenced his attention to detail and ability to merge seemingly contrasting elements. 

This season, AIainPaul’s designs featured flowing fabrics, body-conscious silhouettes, and elements reminiscent of a dancer’s wardrobe. His understanding of how the fabric moves with the body lends a distinct dynamism to his work, positioning him as a fresh voice in the Paris fashion scene.

A piece to remember: The wedding dress’s mesmerising flowing layers

AlainPaul’s wedding dress

Zomer: Minimalism with a conceptual edge

In contrast to the theatrical presentations of his peers, Zomer’s designs embody a quiet yet powerful aesthetic. Known for his minimalist lines, designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha focused on architectural shapes and subtle detailing, while offering an explosion of colours and motives. Resonating with an audience that appreciates wearable art, Zomer’s work stands due to his emphasis on concepts. 

Danial Aitouganov

This season, the Zomer garden came to life, with florals for spring. It might be Miranda Priestly’s worst nightmare, but it was for sure a feast for the eyes thanks to its kaleidoscopic couloir palette, unexpected textures and experimental silhouettes combining playful spontaneity and sophistication. The pieces are more than just garments, they are explorations of how clothing can be both artful and functional.

A piece to remember: The oversized poppy dress trompe-l’œil

The Poppy dress

These three designers represent the future of fashion with their distinct creative visions. From Hodakova’s innovative upcycling to Paul’s dance-inspired silhouettes and Zomer’s architectural minimalism, they are proving that fashion can be a powerful medium for storytelling, sustainability, and artistry. Paris Fashion Week, long known for its role in spotlighting emerging talents, has once again introduced the world to the next wave of designers who are poised to shape the industry’s future.

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