WORDS BY MARTHA Z. MILES

Of inner space, Turkish tea and the dazzling sunsets at OKU Bodrum

We leave the airport and make our way along the many winding paths up and down the hills of Bodrum. We pass whitewashed buildings, the shimmering Aegean Sea dotted with boats, and symbols of Mediterranean goodness: olive groves, trees heavy with green-red pomegranate, and vividly pink bougainvillaea. Welcome to the Turkish Riviera.

There’s a moment of anticipation when the hotel you’re staying at comes into view. Does it look inviting? Did the photos do it justice or were we catfished? The hotel makes or breaks a trip – and considering this is a relaxation holiday, the stakes are high.

And then we turn a corner and OKU Bodrum comes into view, perched on a hill facing a cove. And I breathe a sigh of relief: it beckons, embodying sunshine chic. Laidback luxury. 

The word oku is Japanese for the spiritual and architectural concept of inner space, which is at odds with my perception of Bodrum – that it’s best for beach club and party seekers, which I most certainly am not. Will I find my oku here, my inner space?

I’m welcomed warmly by the team, although completely ignored by resident ginger cats Sabri and Sadri, snoozing on a chair in the sun. Of course there are cats, and of course they are cherished. This is Türkiye, after all.

With just 58 rooms and suites all of which have front-facing sea views, OKU feels both intimate and inviting, offering space to just be. Warm beiges and greys set the tone, dotted by tropical plants and framed by the Aegean Sea. The pared-back boho chic aesthetic creates a neutral canvas to reflect.

Mornings at OKU start slow, the sun taking her time to rise. I use this opportunity to make my way down to the sun loungers perched on a jetty above the water. A man in his 60s is diligently swimming laps in the sea. Rather than swimming, I prefer to spot the schools of fish with their silver scales glinting in the water, and listen to the harmony of the waves merging with the ambient music playing over the speakers. Early morning solitude and it is bliss. I dip my toes into the water. “Come on in, the water is warm,” murmurs the sea.

As the sun’s rays slowly envelope Bodrum in a warm embrace, guests emerge from their rooms eager to swim, eager for morning yoga or eager for breakfast. 

And a wholesome, nourishing breakfast awaits. One of the greatest pleasures of a hotel stay is a good breakfast. Here at To Kima (derived from the Greek word for waves), Mother Nature’s bounty shines: bowls laden with fragrant herbs, colourful tomatoes, plump cherries, crisp watermelon, the green and dusty pink Edremit olives, and more. While the usual suspects are available, the Turkish cheeses, rustic breads, and the glorious fruit and veg win – washed down with the traditional tulip-shaped cups of Turkish tea. Countless cups of Turkish tea.

By day everything is on display. All rooms have a view of the cove, and the restaurants are also built so you can soak up both vistas and Vitamin D. An adults-only property, there are solo travellers, couples, friends and mother-daughter groups, all with their own idea on how to make the most of their time. 

I enjoy one of the best massages I’ve had in a long time at the OKU Spa. My therapist remarks afterwards that I’ve got too much tension so she’s given me balance (thank you Mina). Had I more time, I would’ve booked a traditional Turkish hammam experience too. 

After being massaged and finding balance in the spa, I find myself massaging dough under the watchful eyes of Executive Chef Muhammet Karaaslan in a lahmacun and pide workshop. We get a crash course on these savoury breads while they bake. Did you know there are different types of pide across the country, but only one type of lahmacun? Did you know the oven at To Kima is kept on overnight in case guests have a midnight craving for lahmacun?

I look up from my book and notice someone nearby is reading a German rom-com; someone else is reading Agatha Christie in Turkish. Whether by the sea or by the pool, we’re all stretched out on sun loungers like languid cats basking in the sun when she decides she’ll start to set. As at sunrise she takes her time, the water shimmering as she bids an almost begrudging adieu to another day – and we are dazzled by the show. The sky turns hues of pink and orange, gradually giving way to the mystery of night. On the hill across the cove, houses light up, little beacons to say ‘I’m here, I exist, I matter’. 

And under a starlit sky we have an al fresco dinner at Teyo, the Nikkei-inspired restaurant. The crescendo of the nighttime waves are in friendly competition with the music as we tuck into our sharing plates.  

If you linger over dinner, perhaps Birhan will suggest the Chocolate Dunya, a sphere filled with different textures of chocolate. “It’s sweet, so enjoy it slowly”. Why not? This is meant to be a laidback holiday after all. Or perhaps you’ll try Teyo’s interpretation of baklava: pistachio ice cream topped with shredded phyllo pastry. Enjoy it with more cups of Turkish tea. Countless cups of tea.

Reluctant to end my day, I take a stroll around the grounds, inhaling the sea air and the scent of the freshly cut rosemary in a moment of quiet appreciation. I could get used to this.