Heritage, structure, and subtle personalisation define the Spring/Summer 2026 handbag landscape.
Across the Spring/Summer 2026 shows in New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and Paris Fashion Week, handbags emerged as signals of power and authorship. SS26 marks a move away from the maximalist style towards more textural and structural forms.
The archival revival
Fashion houses leaned heavily into their own histories, reintroducing iconic silhouettes with subtle refinements. Rather than nostalgia, this was about reaffirming identity through recognizable shapes softened, resized, or deliberately aged. At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy debuted updated versions of the maison’s iconic 2.55 and classic silhouettes with manipulated shapes that feel both rooted in history and modern. Celine’s Phantom bag, a beloved silhouette from the Phoebe Philo era, also reappeared on SS26 runways.
The return of structure
After seasons dominated by slouch and softness, SS26 welcomes back structure. Top-handle bags with clean lines and firm silhouettes reappeared across runways, styled as everyday authority pieces rather than occasion wear. Dior’s updated Lady Dior and structured top-handle shapes at Prada and Loewe reflect this trend, blending classic proportions with modern practicality.
Horizontal and elongated silhouettes
One of the season’s strongest shape stories was the elongated, horizontal bag. East–west styles tucked neatly under the arm, offering a modern alternative to both micro bags and oversized totes. Their appeal lies in their streamlined, discreet proportions, which are easy to integrate into daily wardrobes. Bottega Veneta’s east–west clutches and horizontal shapes on the Milan runway exemplify this sleek, everyday luxury form.
The open bag aesthetic
A subtle styling cue emerged on the runways: bags worn slightly open, unfastened, or casually ajar. The message was ‘ease’ rather than carelessness. This translates into SS26 designs with softer closures, relaxed top lines, and interiors designed for accessibility rather than formality. Fendi’s SS26 runway redefined the open-bag trend with Peekaboo bags featuring loose flaps and exposed interiors, marrying refined Italian craftsmanship with an effortless, relaxed attitude toward luxury.
Material experiments
Raffia, straw, and woven fibers returned with a more urban sensibility. Cleaner shapes, reinforced handles, and mixed-material detailing elevated these bags from resort wear to city-ready. SS26 treats natural materials as a texture story rather than a seasonal novelty. Stella McCartney integrated woven details and raffia-inspired textures into bag designs, giving traditional naturals a polished, city-ready lift rather than a resort feel.
Jewellery-Inspired Hardware
Chains, sculptural handles, and decorative metalwork played a defining role this season. Hardware wasn’t merely functional, but it became the bag’s focal point, blurring the line between accessory and adornment. Givenchy’s charm-accented hardware exemplifies this trend of hardware that feels like jewellery in its own right.
