Everything you might have missed from the Runways in Paris This Weekend
Designers continued to unveil their Autumn/Winter 2026 collections in Paris this weekend. From powerful tailoring and artistic collaborations to dramatic eveningwear and reimagined house codes, we bring you highlights from the runway.
Elie Saab
Inspired by the creative pulse of the 1990s New York art scene, Elie Saab’s latest ready-to-wear collection explores the contrast between structured power dressing and expressive evening glamour. The era’s artistic energy informs a wardrobe that moves effortlessly between strength and sensuality.
By day, the focus is on sharp tailoring. Sculptural jackets with rounded shoulders and defined waists are paired with sleek cigarette trousers and tulip skirts, crafted from wool, tweed and velvet in deep midnight hues that convey quiet confidence. As night falls, the mood softens into fluidity and drama. Organza and chiffon drape the body with ease, while hand-painted florals bloom across mirrored leather and shimmering fabrics, evoking movement and artistic spontaneity. The result is a collection that balances precision with romance.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier welcomed back guest designer Duran Lantink for his second collection, delivering a bold follow-up rooted in the house’s spirit of contradiction, humour and transformation. Building on the energy of his debut, Lantink approached the runway as a stage for characters, presenting a cast drawn from entirely different worlds yet united by the label’s irreverent attitude.
A sharply tailored city banker, a raver, a cowboy silhouette and a classic femme fatale appeared side by side, each look pushing the idea of identity and performance. Lantink also played with illusion, bringing mannequins to life through sculptural silhouettes and witty design details. Continuing his archive-driven approach, the designer revisited Gaultier’s legacy of reinvention, reworking familiar house codes with a contemporary, subversive twist.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga unveiled its Winter 2026 collection in Paris under the direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli. Titled ClairObscur, the collection takes its cue from the High Renaissance artistic technique that explores the dramatic interplay between light and shadow.
Sculptural silhouettes, elongated lines and architectural tailoring introduced new shapes and volumes that echo the rhythm of contemporary life. Structured coats, fluid dresses and sharply cut separates moved between strength and softness, reflecting a modern vision of femininity. Throughout the collection, shadowy tones met luminous fabrics, reinforcing the dialogue between contrast and harmony while maintaining the house’s forward-looking approach to form and proportion.
Celine
Celine unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2026 collection in Paris this weekend, designed by Michael Rider. Rather than following a rigid narrative, the collection unfolded as a study in confidence, instinct and individuality, reflecting a wardrobe shaped by personal expression rather than strict rules.
Rider approached the season with a sense of ease, allowing the spirit of the house to emerge through subtle contrasts. Classic tailoring met relaxed silhouettes, while polished pieces were offset by slightly undone elements. The result was a balance between strength and quiet rebellion, where elegance carried a hint of imperfection. Blending references to past and present, the collection explored Celine’s evolving identity while maintaining a modern, self-assured attitude.
Hermès
Hermès revealed its Autumn/Winter 2026 collection in Paris, where artistic director Nadège Vanhée presented a wardrobe defined by quiet strength and effortless precision.
Drawing on the house’s deep equestrian heritage, the collection stayed faithful to Hermès’ enduring codes. Supple leather coats, sculpted riding silhouettes, and refined tailoring wrapped the body in a sense of protection and ease, while rich textures and muted tones underscored the maison’s mastery of materials and craft.
Throughout the show, strength was balanced with softness. Fluid movement, subtle structure and impeccable finishing reflected the understated confidence that has long defined Hermès, where luxury is expressed not through excess, but through precision, restraint and exceptional craftsmanship.
Loewe
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented their vision for @loewe Autumn/Winter 2026, bringing humour, creativity and a bright, inclusive spirit to the runway. Inspired by the work of artist Cosima von Bonin, the show explored the tension between playfulness and deeper reflection.
Von Bonin created a series of artworks for the show space, allowing her sculptures to enter into dialogue with the collection. The result was an exchange of wit, experimentation and artistic energy, reflecting LOEWE’s ability to merge fashion with contemporary art.
McQueen
A cinematic mood set the tone at McQueen this season, as creative director Seán McGirr drew inspiration from Todd Haynes’ 1995 film Safe. The collection opened with striking Edwardian coat dresses, whose Gothic collars, lace trims, and crisp white detailing echoed the house’s darker romantic codes.
Dense lace dresses and liquid silk pieces brought drama to the runway, while sharper moments arrived in the form of a black leather jacket paired with a daring mini skirt. McGirr also explored tailoring through men’s tuxedos layered over stiff bumster mini silhouettes, alongside textured herringbone tweed tunics and metallic knitwear that shimmered like iron and aluminium under the lights.
Eveningwear felt more uneven, with intricate lace occasionally overpowering the silhouette. Yet the collection regained momentum with slashed cocktail dresses and a fantasy feather micro-bolero perched atop a sculpted look that paid homage to the house’s long association with theatrical spirit.
