Milan Fashion Week is in full swing, and Spring/Summer 2027 is already shaping up to be a season of contrasts. Here are four of the collections catching our attention so far.

Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Fendi feels like a new chapter for the brand and for her as a designer. Rather than forcing it into a prescribed silhouette, the collection celebrates freedom and sensuality.

Undergarments become the starting point, elevated through lace, embroidery and flashes of colour, while the spirit of Italian pop icon Raffaella Carrà runs through the collection. Dressing gowns wander beyond the bedroom, silk meets animal print, velvet sits alongside parchment-like textures, and punk rubs shoulders with bourgeois polish.

The layering is deliberately unruly. Glossy against matte, heavy against featherlight, feminine against masculine. A series of juxtapositions that somehow gel so perfectly.

In accessories, jewel-like shoes and a series of standout Baguette bags add a final dose of excess.

ETRO

ETRO is ready for summer. Its latest collection, Halo, takes the house’s visual language and turns down the saturation just enough to make everything feel softer, hazier and slightly sun-faded.

Paisleys blur into abstract auras, prints appear washed by the light, and patches drift across dresses as if collected over a long holiday. The palette moves like the course of a summer day, beginning with powdery nudes before warming into yellow and orange, cooling into blues and greens and eventually deepening into burgundy, brown and black.

There is an appealing lightness to the clothes, from transparent layers and vaporous dresses to fringe and fabric that trails behind the body. Denim, suede and sharper tailoring stop things from becoming too ethereal. Ballerina flats, gladiator sandals and relaxed bohemian bags complete the picture. Rather than rewriting ETRO, Halo relaxes the house codes and gives them a laid-back, refreshed twist.

Jil Sander

At Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti takes the house’s reputation for precision and beautifully controlled minimalism and begins pulling at the seams, not to destroy it, but to see what happens when a little vulnerability creeps in.

The uniform provides the starting point. Tailoring is disciplined and exact, before folds begin twisting around the body, layers clash, and proportions slip out of alignment. Knitwear crumples, dresses gather, and balloon unexpectedly, and restraint gradually gives way to something more instinctive.

Even colour has an impact. Muted neutrals are punctuated by an abstracted Japanese landscape, its serenity distorted into something less predictable.

Accessories follow suit: elongated pointed shoes feel severe, geometric bags buckle and collapse, and flashes of colour appear where they are least expected.

Missoni

Missoni has never been particularly interested in dressing by the rules, and Spring/Summer 2027 makes a convincing case for following instinct instead. This is a wardrobe assembled in motion, where pieces are added, removed and mismatched according to the moment. A crumpled hat provides shelter, thick socks appear beneath delicate strappy sandals, and, naturally, the accessories are slightly wrong in all the right ways.

Long fluid dresses sit alongside ankle-gathered trousers, neat cardigans and simple tops, while the house’s familiar knitwear begins to loosen up. Chevrons and stripes fray and dissolve, with metallic threads and sequins woven through surfaces that can feel rough, dry and lived-in. Preciousness, here, has no intention of waiting until evening.

Sun-faded sand, tobacco, dusty pink and brown provide the backdrop for sudden flashes of red, blue, yellow, gold and silver. Day and night, practical and extravagant, all happily blur together. The message is simple: set off with what you have and see what you pick up along the way.