The runway highlights you might have missed from the autumn/winter 2026 shoes in Milan

The latest season of Milan Fashion Week has kicked off in the Italian city and there is plenty to look forward to. From designer debuts to runway returns, we reveal some of the highlights so far.

Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri made her much-anticipated debut for Fendi, returning to the brand for the first time since the nineties.  Unveiling her autumn/winter 2026 collection for the Roman house, she was inspired by the motto “Less I, more us.” The collection reflected a renewed focus on collaboration, creative dialogue and collective expression, honouring both individuality and shared values within fashion.

Rooted in FENDI’s heritage yet unmistakably aligned with Chiuri’s own refined sensibility, the show presented a masterclass in tailoring and elevated dressing. An almost entirely neutral palette underscored the quiet strength of the silhouettes, punctuated only by fleeting flashes of yellow and red that brought moments of contrast to the runway. A quietly assured, elevated offering.

Jil Sander

Jil Sander returned to the Milan runway for Autumn/Winter 2026. presenting the collection at the brand’s headquarters in a show shaped by the emotional language of home. Creative director Simone Bellotti approached the season by exploring clothing as a space of comfort, belonging, and personal expression.

Rendered in a muted palette of faded neutrals offset by black, blue, and grey, the collection focused on movement and physicality. There was a visible dialogue between the body and the garments themselves, with tailoring that felt almost autonomous in its behavior. Raised shoulder lines, shifting collars, expanding fabric allowances, and pockets that seemed to drift away from the form created a sense of garments in motion. Slashes appeared throughout, most notably in sharply cut coats and blazers, while upholstery-inspired textiles were softened into sculptural hourglass silhouettes. Dresses, meanwhile, floated in cloud-like formations that balanced structure with softness.

The mirroring of womenswear and menswear continued into the accessories, with exaggerated heels sitting alongside unisex flats and square-toed lace-ups. Bags combined geometric precision with organic curves, while sunglasses offered a preview of an upcoming collaboration with Oliver Peoples.

Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli’s Fall/Winter 2026 women’s collection unfolds as a thoughtful exploration of craftsmanship, memory, and modern femininity, expressed through silhouettes that feel both grounded and quietly refined. Drawing inspiration from the British countryside, the collection reinterprets heritage motifs such as checks, houndstooth, and tartan through softly structured tailoring and fluid forms. A subtle interplay between rustic romanticism and sartorial precision runs throughout, creating contrasts that are at once delicate and assured. Texture takes center stage, with tweeds, brushed finishes, lace, and flowing silks layered alongside tactile knitwear and understated luminous accents. The result is a nuanced balance between density and lightness, transparency and structure.

The palette moves through layered neutrals and deeper tones, lending warmth and depth to the collection’s understated elegance. From relaxed tailoring to couture-inspired knitwear, each piece moves seamlessly between day and evening.

Etro

Etro’s autumn/winter 2026 collection, Loop Forward, continues the house’s exploration of heritage through constant reinvention. Under the direction of Marco De Vincenzo, the offering reflects a circular design language, in which familiar codes are revisited and reshaped season after season. Recognisable signatures such as fluid silhouettes, expressive prints, and references to the formal British wardrobe are reintroduced as evolving elements within a broader narrative.

This season centers on the idea of collecting, both objects and experiences, bringing seemingly disparate worlds into conversation. Tartans sit alongside trompe l’oeil scarf prints, while motifs inspired by medieval bestiaries and magnified coats of arms appear across outerwear and tailoring. Paisley remains a constant presence, complemented by sharply cut jackets finished with unexpected feather trims and textured detailing. Sequins lend a subtle luminosity throughout, set against a palette of organic neutrals punctuated by yellow, blue, and deep black.

Accessories continue this dialogue between tradition and modernity. Sturdy boots are paired with slender-heeled sandals secured by chunky buckles, while suede mules created in collaboration with Birkenstock introduce a relaxed sensibility. Softly structured handbags, compact totes, and embroidered pouches complete the offering, reinforcing the collection’s balance between familiarity and renewal.

Missoni

Missoni’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection by Alberto Caliri paid tribute to the enduring elegance of Milan, using the city itself as the starting point for a creative exploration rooted in warmth, ease, and everyday refinement. The collection approached winter dressing with quiet confidence, offering pieces that prioritise comfort without compromising sophistication.

Caliri envisioned a woman defined by relaxed elegance. On the runway, silhouettes were generous yet considered, with statement collars, deep pockets, and convertible knit dresses lending a sense of practicality to otherwise polished looks. The emphasis remained on ease of movement and lived-in luxury, expressed through layered textures and tactile finishes that felt both modern and familiar.

Throughout the collection, a subtle dialogue unfolded between masculine and feminine codes. Borrowing from traditional menswear, the Missoni FW 26/27 woman adopted tailored pieces with a softened approach, wearing them to balance structure with fluidity. Sinuous lines and shimmering accents introduced moments of lightness, ensuring that the collection retained a distinctly feminine sensibility while embracing strength and versatility.